Friday, July 25, 2008

Skinny Regimes (updated)

In some way or other, I seriously suspect that I suffer from obsessive compulsive disorder. It manifests most evidently in my mp3 collection. Not only do I meticulously ensure that the file names of the mp3 are renamed according to an unwritten set of rules, their respective ID3 tags are individually/batch edited. Yes... All 8000 of them.

Anyway, this post is not about my mp3 collection, but about another irrational preoccupation that I have been facing.

This obsession was probably sparked when my skin began breaking out during my secondary school days. As I rampaged through over-the-counter products in Watsons and recommended boutique brands, the problem persisted.

A visit to my family doctor and some horridly overpriced doctor in Punggol did help to a certain extent, but the treatment was unfortunately based on antibiotics such as tetracycline. So when the daily dosage was reduced, my skin was back to its chaotic state.

It certainly didn't help when I entered a dubious chemical defense medical unit known as Medical Response Force (MRF). The perpetual wearing of the gas mask fuelled further breakouts.

I did enjoy half a year of respite from acne when I finally secured constant supply of Accutane from National Skin Centre. While the side effects was mind-boggling, the results was undisputable too. Unfortunately, as I finished the course of Accutane, the inherant problem returned, albeit at a less severe level.

It was only in the past couple of years that I finally manage to harness the powers of internet effectively. Here are three websites that have arguably made a long lasting impact to my "skin regime".

1. Acne.org
Honed by Daniel Kern, he strongly advocates using Benzoyl Peroxide at 2.5% strength to keep those zits at bay.

2. Paula Begoun, the Cosmetic Cop
Begoun began as a makeup artist but made her mark after writing an exposé of the cosmetics industry. In the 1990s, she founded her own skin care and cosmetics company, Paula's Choice while continuing to recommend and critique products on the market.

Indeed, her ingredient driven reviews are much more convincing than the inane and ludicrous marketing employed so prevalently.

3. PubMed and ScienceDirect
To me, there is only one source more reliable than reviews, which of course is, perusing the medical journal yourself. This is the ONLY time when I actually read scientific literature papers on my own.

And the result is...
1. Salicylic Acid 5% by Diana Yvonne
2. Pineapple Enzyme Facial Peel by 100% Pure
3. Tea Tree Oil Facial Wash by Body Shop
4. Babyface Foam by SmoothE
5. Babyface Scrub by SmoothE
6. Soothing Facial Toner by Simple
7. Panoxyl Acnegel 5 by Stiefel Laboratories
8. Acnederm Medicated Lotion by Ego Pharmaceuticals
9. Tea Tree Oil 100% Pure by Thurday Plantations
10. Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Mattifying Concentrate Serum by Paula's Choice
11. Exfoliating 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel by Paula's Choice
12. Skin Relief Treatment by Paula's Choice
13. Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunblock SPF 30 by Neutrogena

Out of the apparent overkill of extraneous products, the following are what I consider essential:

Cleanser: Tea Tree Oil Facial Wash by Body Shop

Frankly, I am pretty biased against the Body Shop. Too much fragrance, artificial colouring and irritating ingredients seem to be the main stay of their products. So I was surprised that Paula Begoun "semi-recommended" this product.

The tea tree oil helps to give that added oomph when I'm washing up in the morning.

Ingredients:
Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Polysorbate 20, Alcohol Denat. , Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree Oil) , Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Allantoin, Polyquaternium-10, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, CI 19140, CI 42090.

Acne Control
While I would not qualify to suffer from severe acne, I have sufficient pustules, cyst and nodules to cause massive decimation on my face. Anyone suffering from this perennial pesky problem should comprehend the desperation in trying to control it.

Basically, while there are many ingredients in the market that tout and boast of reducing or removing acne, the following 3 topical chemicals arguably receive the most literature reviews.

1. Benzoyl Peroxide (2.5 & 5%)

This is the mother (or maybe grandmother) of them all.

After decades and decades of research, there are still no topical agent that can rival its efficacy (excluding antibiotics and retinoids).

The only downside is benzoyl peroxide can be overly dry and irritating to sensitive skin. But the greatest pain for me is the bleaching effect it has on fabrics.

2. Azelaic Acid (20%)

The next best thing.

I stand corrected but I believe its effectiveness against acne ranks slightly behind benzoyl peroxide. Yet, the most significant advantage that it does not cause accidental staining to clothing.

3. Tea tree oil (Melaleuca)

I used this actively during my student exchange in New Zealand, but have subsequently stopped after sometime. I was initially enamored by studies that tea tree oil at 5% is less harsh than benzoyl peroxide at a similar concentration. However, it soon became apparent that there were no products on the market with 5% tea tree oil, thus I ended up having to use this 100% neat.

At a concentration 20 times higher than recommended, my skin expectedly didn't appreciate it much.

Exfoliant
1. Exfoliating 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel by Paula's Choice

As opposed to Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, a BHA exfoliates both the skin's surface and inside the pore lining. With the slight anti-bacterial properties, I'm pretty thoroughly convinced that this duo effect can combat both acne and the damages caused by acne.

For further information on AHA and BHA, refer to this article by Begoun.

Ingredients:
Water, Methylpropanediol, Salicylic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium (Willow Herb) Extract, Bisabolol, Phytosphingosine, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA.

2. Salicylic Acid 5% by Diana Yvonne

Lured and tempted by a friend, I officially stepped to the dark side by purchasing this BHA at 5%.

While the daily use of BHA 2% would eventually result in a smoother skin, any visible effect would probably take eons. So an "industrial-strength" weekly acid peel is quintessential to a quicker route towards that ideal baby-bottom skin.

Ingredients:
Alcohol, Salicylic Acid

3. Pineapple Enzyme Facial Peel by 100% Pure

Admittedly, this purchase was made on impulse.

Those who have worked with enzymes should know how notoriously unstable they are. With a myriad of factors ranging from pH, to temperature, to the presence of ions and concentration, I am still not convinced that the enzymes (bromelian and papain) make effective exfoliants.

Ingredients: Kaolin Clay, Bromelian (Pineapple Enzyme), Papain (Papaya Enzyme), Pineapple Juice, Vitamin C (calcium ascorbate), Lemon Juice

Sunscreen: Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunblock SPF 30

Last but not least, sunscreen.

I never expected the day would arrive when I would put on sunscreen regularly, but it did. I am utterly convinced that all the anti-oxidants, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, anti-every-damn-thing-you-can-ever-imagine-in-the-world would never match up to the prowess of the humble sunscreen.

Yes, as they would always say, The best anti-aging product on the market is sunscreen.

I recommend refering to the website "Environmental Working Group's SKIN DEEP". They have released a summer report on what makes a good sunscreen.

Ingredients:
Active: Avobenzone (2%), Homosalate (7%), Octinoxate (7.5%), Octisalate (5%), Oxybenzone (3%)
Other: Water, Silica, Adipic Acid/Diethylene Glycol/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Vp-Hexadecene Copolymer, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycerin, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Squalane, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone, Bht, Cetyl Dimethicone, Bisabolol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glyceryl Stearate, Peg-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Tetrasodium Edta, Butylene Glycol, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Xanthan Gum, Benzyl Alcohol, Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Butylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance

To Purchase, Protect and Provide
Okay. With much digression, the main point of this post is to jio more people to show some care for your skin and not be led by a leash by those evil marketing so prevalent in the cosmetic industry.

With the US dollar sinking to new lows, I have decided to make a shipment of some products from the US via VPost.

I would be making orders from 3 websites:

1. Daniel Kern Store

The star product is unequivocably the 2.5% benzoyl peroxide acne gel in an 8Oz bottle!

8 oz. Treatment
Active Ingredient: 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide

Also Contains: Water, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Sodium Hydroxide.


2. Good Skin at Kohls.com

The three products that have earned the highest accolades from Paula Begoun...

I. All Calm Gentle Sunscreen SPF 25

"base is purely titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which means you get excellent sun protection with almost no risk of irritation. It also has a wonderful silky feel with a nice array of impressive, state-of-the-art ingredients..."

Ingredients: Active: Titanium Dioxide (8.8%), Zinc Oxide (1.7%), Other: Water Purified, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Steareth-2, Silica, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Aluminum Stearate, Tricaprylin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Pantethine, Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Peg/Ppg-18/18 Dimethicone, Chamomile, Tricaprylyl Citrate, Matricaria, Trifluoromethyl C1-4 Alkyl Dimethicone, Barium Sulfate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Xanthan Gum, Stearic Acid, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Sorbitan Tristearate, Ceteth-2, Peg-40 Stearate, Steareth-20, Sodium Stearate, Citric Acid, Disodium Edta, Bht, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Isopropylparaben,

II. All Right Oil-Free Sunscreen SPF 30

"an exceptionally well-formulated sunscreen, listing avobenzone as one of the active sunscreen ingredients to cover the UVA spectrum, along with antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and ingredients that mimic skin structure..."

Ingredients: Active: Homosalate (10%), Octinoxate (7.5%), Octisalate (5%), Oxybenzone 93%), Avobenzone (3%), Other: Water Purified, Cyclopentasiloxane, Tea-Stearate, Dimethicone, Tricontanyl Pvp, Isohexadecane, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Caffeine, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phospholipids, Sucrose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile), Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria), Cetyl Alcohol, Hexylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Peg-8, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Potassium Stearate, Tea-Carbomer, Disodium Edta, Bht, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben

III. All Firm Rebuilding Serum

"A good, lightweight moisturizer with a very good mix of interesting state-of-the-art ingredients..."

Ingredients: Water Purified, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Peg-75, Glycereth-26, Yeast Extract, Peg-8 Dimethicone, Dimethicone, Green Tea Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment Extract, Sunflower Seed Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Plankton Extract, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment Extract, Algae Extract, Saccharomyces/ Calcium Ferment Extract, Acetyl Carnitine Hcl, Sodium Rna, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pantethine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycerin, Matricaria, Lecithin, Chamomile, Peg/Ppg-20/20 Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dipropylene Glycol, Ppg-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Xanthan Gum, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Peg-8, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Potassium Carbomer, Disodium Edta, Bht, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben



2. Walgreens

I've decided to ditched the sunscreens by Good Skin for Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew Intensive Anti-Sun-Damage Daily Moisture Lotion (SPF 28).

It is currently the few sunscreens I can find that fulfills the following criteria:
1. For Combination/Oily Skin
2. Contain UVA-protecting ingredients
3. Obtains a relative good review from Paula Begoun
4. Approved by Environmental Working Group (somewhat...)
5. Does not leave white residue after application
6. Avoids Oxybenzone
7. Reasonably priced
8. Contain antioxidants with good packaging

"This lotion-textured, soft matte-finish daytime moisturizer is a good choice for those with normal to oily skin prone to breakouts. Garnier even included a noteworthy blend of antioxidants, and in packaging that keeps them stable..."

Active Ingredients: Avobenzone 3%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 7%, Other Ingredients: Water, Isononyl Isononanoate, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Propylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Butylene Glycol, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Dimethicone, Nylon 66, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Tomato Extract - Lycopene - Solanium Lycopersicum, Vitamin C - Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Kiwi Fruit Water - Actinidia Chinensis, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Magnesium PCA - Magnesium, Manganese PCA - Magnesium, Mica, Sodium PCA - Magnesium, Zinc PCA - Magnesium, Titanium Dioxide, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, PEG-8 Laurate, Disodium EDTA


3. Paula's Choice

I am convinced that all of her products have been well thought-out combined with great formulation. With an ultra safe approach, you would find that all the products have not colouring agents, fragrance or irritating ingredients.

Factor in the price, I believe that the Exfoliating 1/2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel/Lotion/Liquid is extremely value-for-money.


So what are you waiting for? Send me a SMS soon as I will probably place an order before August. Together, we can beat the US shipping cost!

Featured Websites:
1. Paula Begoun http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
2. SKIN DEEP http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/
3. Paula's Choice http://shop.paulaschoice.com/
4. Acne.org http://www.acne.org/
5. Danielkern.com http://www.danielkern.com/
6. Good Skin @ Kohls.com http://www.kohls.com/kohlsStore/beauty/goodskin.jsp
7. Diana Yvonne http://www.dianayvonne.com/

8. Walgreens http://www.walgreens.com/beauty/

Labels: , , , , , , , , ,

8 Comments:

Blogger eisen said...

Eh solid la. I know what job you can get next time after you graduate man...

10:33 am  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Oh man, I am very enticed by the packaging of the Good Skin sunscreen! But I cant, I cant buy anymore!

Anw, I was in a rush to get out of the house today, and I decided to skip the sunscreen! *ME WINCING AT MY OWN IGNORANCE*

I know I know, even if it's cloudy outside (as was today after the downpour), I should still wear SPF!

Anw, check out Clinelle's Purifying toner for me. I'm too lazy to go through the ingredients myself! *Hee*

But I like how it feels on my face as compared to the Simple one.

10:33 pm  
Blogger Kelvin Lim said...

Aiyah Eisen, I'm always interested in all the wrong things... I should have just gone into delve straight into pharmacy or something rite?

12:25 am  
Blogger Kelvin Lim said...

And fan ah... The Paula's choice sunscreen is already packed with antioxidants. I see no reason to ditch it for Good Skin.

As for Clinelle's Purifying toner, I have already checked out the ingredients. Let's just say you should NOT make a repeat purchase. The Simple Soothing Toner on the other hand seems more mild (except for the Witch Hazel).

Yeah, unless it's an adverse reaction, it seems feelings can be arbitrary and misleading.

12:45 am  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Wow. I need yr recommendations. Chris says I don't need acid.

8:41 am  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Either you have loads of time on your hand, or you have tonnes of time on your hand. I think you have both. Anyway, freelance review writers earn "freelance peanut" pay. Since you are interested, just take it as a hobby; writing doesn't pay in singapore.

9:40 pm  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

hey kelvin, i use the common house soap to wash my face.. can get a little harsh on the skin, but once get used to it, makes those zits go away.. i noticed thats something u didn't mention.. have u tried it though?

11:45 am  
Blogger Kelvin Lim said...

Will: I ordered the BHA gel for you liao lah.

Ren: Haha. I don't exactly have a lot of time now unfortunately. But $$ sounds good, heh.

Aaron: NOOOooo. You should never use bar soaps as facial soap cos they are overly drying and potentially irritating to skin, regardless of skin types. That said, for people with skin like yours, it just doesn't matter what you use.

And yeah, there is no scientific basis for "washing away zits". Acne is caused NOT by lack of hygiene but by hormonal imbalance and clogged pores with a strain of bacteria related to acne.

2:49 pm  

Post a Comment

<< Home